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 Staying
in the genteel coastal town of Opatija Croatia, it's hard not to agree with them.
It is perched on the sea's edge, a jumble of graceful nineteenth-century
villas and the occasional modern house. Small cafés spill out onto the
streets and the people seem relaxed and relatively affluent. An elegant
promenade 12 kilometres long makes it possible to stroll along the water's
edge to the neighbouring towns of Volosko and Lovran. The climate is
temperate for much of the year.
It is easy to believe that you are only two- and-a-half-hour's gentle
boat ride away from Venice. But Opatija grew up as a playground for
Viennese high society which came for the weather and the thermal spas and,
in some ways, it still has the air of another cen tury. James Joyce worked
here for a while as an English teacher in the now Croatian town of Pula. A
portrait of the artist as a young man that I had never heard about, though
I'm sure the place was right up his boulevard. The composer Giacomo
Puccini and the innovative dancer Isadora Duncan were also regular
visitors. From Guardian, Sunday July 7, 2002. To read the
rest of the article, click the title below:
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